Craig Lory has pinot-pink paws – his hands stained from manually plunging grapes into vats behind his tasting room in the middle of Oamaru’s historic precinct. He also stomps grapes to avoid bruising the seeds, so his feet are probably in similar shape.

Grapes are grown between Kurow and Duntroon for the young winery; 2011 was the first harvest and 2012 the first vintage to be made in the “urban winery”, where you can also taste some 20 wines from small growers in the
valley and other southern producers.

Our picks Birdlands’ Putangitangi (all Birdlands wines are named for native birds) sauvignon blanc from Doctor’s Creek vineyards is wild-fermented, with a touch of botrytis. The unfiltered pinot gris displays
an attractive lemon-meringue character, while Brother Adam Pinot Gris 2008 is spicy and honeyed.

Plus The winery doubles as a rock music studio and occasional gig venue – no wonder Craig’s artisanal wines have an appropriately wild energy.