Setting
This is Kiwi as. At the end of a quiet back-country road, in the middle of farmland, you’ll see a small sign in royal purple indicating there’s a winery and vineyard beyond the gate. The unassuming building, which once housed cows, is the winery, barrel hall and cellar door of Hyperion Wines, home to some of the most impressive reds made in the region.

Things to know
At a recent vertical tasting of seven Hyperion cabernet sauvignons back to 1998, tasters were thrilled by the quality and longevity of some of the older vintages. John Crone, a winemaker via chemical engineering and computing, claims he still has much to learn, but that’s too modest – his wines are excellent.

Our picks
The region’s only pinot noir is made here, but it’s the full-bodied reds that really sing. Merlot, syrah, malbec and cabernet sauvignon are all deeply satisfying.plus They make Acropolis, a port-style aged tawny and, occasionally, grappa.

Plus
They make Acropolis, a port-style aged tawny and, occasionally, grappa.