wine

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• Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 2004

  

  Taittinger’s sublime Comtes de Champagne might be the best all-chardonnay Champagne there is. Initially subtle and very fine, it evolves …

  5 | over $100

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  top 5

• J de Telmont Grande Reserve Brut NV

  

  A surprise packet from a relatively unknown, but century-old Champagne house, this admirable wine combines orchard-fruit aromas with threads of …

  5 | $60-$70

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  top 5

• Bollinger La Grande Année Brut 2004

  

  Bollinger’s many fans will recognise the 2004 Grande Année as a great example of the slightly confronting, developed house fashion. …

  5 | over $100

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• GH Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut NV

  Mumm Champagnes have been on the improve in recent years and the “standard” non-vintage sums up the house style well, …

  4.5 | $80-$100

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• Charles Courbet Brut NV

  3 | $30-$40

• Krug Grande Cuvee Brut NV

  

  A super-rich, traditional wine made in Krug’s signature complex, long-aged style. It’s as much about nutty, sweetly toasty and vanilla …

  5 | over $100

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  top 10

• Piper-Heidsieck Cuvee Brut NV

  

  This red-labelled non-vintage always punches above its weight in the quality and value stakes. Very lively and fresh, it has …

  5 | $70-$80

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  top 5

• Drappier Millésime Exception 2005

  Drappier’s Millésime Exception is a traditionally styled wine, reliant on about 65 per cent pinot noir and barrel ageing of …

  4 | $80-$100

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• Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rosé Brut 2004

  

  “Perfection” was the word panel chair John Belsham used to describe this rose-gold-coloured vintage Champagne. Raspberry nougat, apricot, vanilla bean …

  5 | over $100

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  top 5

• Cattier Brut Sensation NV

  3 | $40-$50