Bollinger La Grande Année Brut 2004
Bollinger’s many fans will recognise the 2004 Grande Année as a great example of the slightly confronting, developed house fashion. It’s like a decadent melange of cake, calvados, nutty threads, even chocolate, and an apparent hint of oak, unusual in Champagne, is entirely appropriate to this very dry, powerful drop. “A magnificent wine that stops just short of being over the top”, said Eveline Fraser.