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Lawson’s Dry Hills Gewürztraminer 2024 (Marlborough)

Lawson’s Dry Hills Gewürztraminer 2024 (Marlborough)

No matter what ends up on top for this category, there is always a gewürtztraminer on the list. Known for its telltale highly aromatic lychee and rosewater nose, gewürtz is mostly associated with Germany and Alsace, which sits just inside the French border with Germany. Gewürtz loves cool climates, so unsurprisingly it grows well in New Zealand.

Unlike in Alsace, however, where gewürtz is the second most-planted grape, in New Zealand it accounts for less than 1% and is predominantly planted in the south island. The cool climate helps with the purity of vibrant aromatics and the bright clean palate that make this wine so special. That said, those who love a richer gewürtz should look to Hawke’s Bay for gratification.

When it comes to the relative obscurity of gewürtztraminer, perhaps the range of sweetness levels is part of the issue (as is the plight of other aromatic, riesling). With New Zealand’s star wine sauvignon blanc continuing in its global ascendancy, the winemaker is left with the dilemma to make what you love or to make what’s most likely to make you money. In a cost- of-living crisis, painful practical decisions have to be made and more and more sauvignon vines replace other varietals.

Luckily for those adorers of something pungent, not everyone has given up on gorgeous gewürtz and for that we’re truly grateful. A pretty and enticing nose with rose petals and musk drawing you into the glass, this palate is an exotic melange of cinnamon, nutmeg and that all essential musk returns to beguile. Charmingly complex.