Yalumba Paradox Shiraz 2017 (Barossa)
Entirely from grapes grown in the northern Barossa, this is nevertheless (as the name suggests), not your usual full-throttle jammy rendition of that terroir. An intriguingly complex and nuanced wine with sweet blackcurrant and blueberry balancing some winemaking funk, the oak is well-measured on this velvet-textured, relatively restrained Barossa shiraz. (A)