Central Otago is so well known for its stunning pinot noir that I feel the region’s aromatics are underappreciated. Central’s large diurnal range makes it the perfect location for growing aromatic grapes. The cool nights that follow long, hot ripening days ensure acid levels stay nice and high, perfect for sauvignon, gewürztraminer and, of course, riesling. It makes sense, then, that when Peregrine first planted their Bendigo vineyard in 1999, the initial plantings were pinot noir, pinot gris and riesling.

Peregrine operates a BioGro-certified organic vineyard and strives to work in tune with the land, viewing winegrowing as one part of holistic farming. Weeds and overgrowth are managed using goats and sheep, which in turn provide manure that feeds the vines. Grubs are managed with poultry, which in turn provide eggs then used for wine fining and feeding the hard- working team. With pigs and beehives, too, Peregrine has created a beautiful ecosystem from which great things grow.

This riesling is undoubtedly a great thing, a late harvest riesling, 100% hand-harvested mostly from Peregrine’s Bendigo vineyard. In the glass the mid-colour is still pale despite its age. Not an overtly opulent style, but elegant with honeyed lime aromatics and an incredible balance between sweet and acid. Perfectly harmonious and pure. Peregrine suggests that this wine be cellared for six years, but considering we’re at the six-year mark and this wine is still looking absolutely superb, we’re confident it will keep a couple more years yet.