Bordeaux-style reds continue to punch boldly, especially those born of New Zealand’s oldest wine-growing region, says MARY-THÉRÈSE BLAIR.
I think we’re all savvy enough to realise that, for the most part, marketing slogans need to be taken with a pinch of salt. That said, the tagline for Hawke’s Bay is ‘Great Things Grow Here’ – and that is right on the money. Year after year, this tasting of Bordeaux-style wines sees those from The Bay soar to the top of the list. This year is no exception. Twelve of the Top 14 wines hail from the east coast of the North Island. The mere fact that we have 14 (a good deal more than usual) is an indication of the sheer quantity of wines that were just so good the very notion of a mere Top Ten was left in the dust. This is the largest volume of awarded wines I’ve seen in this category in my time at Cuisine, which is exciting news for growers and imbibers alike.
There's a strong case for renaming this award ‘The Chris Scott Award for excellence in red-wine making’ because, for the past four years of this tasting, the top wine has come from the hallowed halls of Church Road Winery and has been made by a winemaking team led by Chris Scott. If a Church Road wine comes top again next year, there’s a real fear I may have exhausted all the things I could possibly say.
Different judges, different judging locations, different vintages, different wines. The one constant: the superbly talented Chris Scott, Chief Winemaker at Church Road in Hawke’s Bay. Chris started his career at Church Road in 1998 as a cellar hand and worked his way up to the esteemed top job by 2015. It’s undeniable that Chris is one of New Zealand’s most celebrated and awarded winemakers with an ability to craft wines using the very best of modern and traditional winemaking techniques that are layered, complex and beguiling. This single-vineyard cabernet sauvignon is no exception, with a beautifully deep and dense colour that reaches right to the rim of the glass, intense toast and spice backed by dried herbs and ripe dark blackcurrant aromas on the nose. The palate is bright and ripe with concentrated dark fruit flavours. Bold yet juicy with chalky tannins, robust structure, lovely linearity and drive. An intense yet extremely satisfying wine.
Deeply coloured through to the rim with powerful aromas of toast spice …
2A deep yet rich ruby colour with aromas of black doris plum, …
3Dark and brooding with opulent fruit and berries on the attractive and …
4Deeply coloured with just a hint of fade on the rim and …
5A vibrant purple colour that comes to the rim of the glass …
6A rich, dark and inviting ruby colour with a complex nose that …
7Ripe plums stream through the nose backed up by green leafy herbal …
8Deep and dark with aromas of blackberries alongside fresh ripe-red fruits. The …
9Deeply coloured and youthful with a purple rim evident. Sweet berry aromas …
10Powerful fruit intensity is immediately evident on the nose with dark and …
11The complexity from time spent ageing is evident with lovely dark fruit …
12A rich colour with just a hint of fade on the rim. …
13Deeply coloured with some tawny starting to appear, the nose is very …
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