Australian Shiraz Tasting results

23 June 2025 (Cuisine magazine Issue 230)

MARY-THÉRÈSE BLAIR finds that resisting temptation is part of the job for shiraz judges.

The Shiraz class is one that isn’t always easy to assess. Large numbers of such big, bold and tannic wines in succession can very easily lead to palate fatigue and it becomes challenging to determine which wines are complex and interesting versus those that have been propped up with vast quantities of sugar – in judging circles this is commonly referred to as ‘being seduced’. Sugar is introduced to wine to cover flaws in winemaking and it absolutely has the power to seduce and deceive less-experienced judges, particularly when they are on shiraz number 30 in the middle of a long judging day.

Luckily our judging table is staffed by only the very best experienced, talented judges who are turning the table on seduction and beguiling you with the very best Australian shiraz available in New Zealand.

Top 5 Australian Shiraz

St Hugo Shiraz 2021 (Barossa, South Australia)

Much like us Kiwis, our neighbouring Aussie mates had a cracker 2021 vintage. In fact, it’s been described as one of the best vintages in the past decade. South Australia, in particular, had an incredible vintage. Considering that South Australia makes 50% of Australia’s wine and 80% of its premium wine, this bodes well for the reputation of the big island next door.

St Hugo is one of the legendary wine brands of South Australia’s Barossa and while Hugo Gramp didn’t establish the family wine business, he most certainly took it to the next level as G Gramp & Sons wines had a period of unparalleled growth from 1920 to 1938 under his leadership. Hugo’s own son Colin in turn founded St Hugo to honor his father’s legacy and contribution to Australian wine. Since its first vintage in 1980, St Hugo wines have been regarded as powerful yet premium and elegant wines, which this example most definitely is.

A hugely deep and persistent ruby speaks to the observer of this youthful wine. The nose is resplendent with dark- fruit aromas balanced by attractive herbal characteristics alongside a green fruit that really gives the wine intrigue. The palate is ripe and fleshy with concentrated fruit flavours both black and red. The tannins are rounded and well polished with a lively acidity that adds brightness while maintaining a line through to the finish of this elegant and exceptional shiraz.