NZ & International Chardonnay Tasting results

02 September 2024 (Cuisine magazine Issue 225)

Quality chardonnay abounds across our regions despite challenging conditions for some, says MARY-THÉRÈSE BLAIR

This was an exciting and challenging set of wines for our judges to tackle. As another year passes, the glories of the stellar vintages of 2019, 2020 and 2021 are, for the most part, fading from view. Rising into the foreground are the 2022 and 2023 vintages: both vintages showed considerable regional variability due to some parts of the country being profoundly affected by adverse – and in the case of Hawke’s Bay, catastrophic – weather events. However despite doom and gloom, people prevail, as they always do. No one works harder than a wine crew during vintage and despite the weather, the workload or the time of day (or night), the grapes get harvested and the end result for you is some glorious wines that hail from various regions all over the country. The top thirteen alone cover Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay, Central Otago, Wairarapa and Nelson. This baker’s dozen? Unlucky for none.

top NZ & International Chardonnay

Church Road McDonald Series Chardonnay 2023 (Hawke’s Bay)

As there isn't another red wine tasting scheduled here at Cuisine for 2024, I had thought that I was done talking about Church Road’s head winemaker, Chris Scott. I should have known better. When it comes to the talents of Mr Scott, the colour of the wine has no bearing as his 2023 McDonald Series Chardonnay takes the top spot for 2024.

I have a particular passion for the Church Road McDonald Series as I think it illustrates that it is possible to get a fantastic bottle of wine that doesn’t cost the earth. This range sits within the Church Road portfolio as the step-up range from the entry-level wines. While that step is relatively small in monetary terms, for me it’s huge in terms of quality. The McDonald Series is named after Church Road founder and wine visionary Tom McDonald and features a range of red and white wines available for under $30. As the current cost of living crisis continues to crunch, it’s nice to know that those of us who are still making room in our budget for the necessities – such as chardonnay – can get something special without breaking the bank.

This is an unashamedly full style of chardonnay that knows what it’s about. It’s pale in the glass with aromas of lemons, roasted nuts, struck match and just a hint of salty sea water. The palate is richly textured and complex with concentrated fruit, well- handled oak and stunning minerality that makes it refreshing and delivers ultimate drinkability.