The 2024 vintage chardonnay rises to the top of a variable field, says MARY-THÉRÈSE BLAIR.
While the perception generally is that tasting wines looks like a pretty sweet gig, it’s not always. When there are some tough flights to assess it can make for a challenging tasting.
Some examples from the lauded vintages of 2020 and 2021 are starting to fade in the glass, 2022 was a difficult vintage and 2023 a mixed bag which further confuses the judging process. Put together in one day of blind tasting and, well, that’s a tough row to hoe. You start to question whether you’re doing it right. Did you miss something? Are you being unduly harsh? Are you not picking up something vital? A gruelling run of wines tends to make you question your life choices.
That said, the world of wine is ever evolving and with every year comes a new set of circumstances and a new vintage of wines. 2024 was a very strong year from which emerged some spectacular chardonnays, as illustrated by the fact that 10 of our glorious top twelve are from 2024.
I wonder if, when the first vines were planted on Waiheke in 1977, anyone imagined it would become the wine mecca we love today. Located off the coast of our largest city, tourists short on time to get to the regions can take a 45 minute ferry sailing from downtown to get their fix of fantastic New Zealand wine in situ. Waiheke boasts approximately 900,000 visitors annually and it’s easy to see why. Its Mediterranean- esque micro climate, stunning beaches and thriving art scene makes Waiheke a slice of heaven. All that, and some pretty exceptional boutique wines hail from there.
Purchased in 1992 as an escape from the rat race, Mudbrick Winery has evolved into a must-visit location on the island. With sweeping views over the Hauraki Gulf and romantic rustic brick buildings, it unsurprisingly has become a popular wedding destination. For those not ready to commit, Mudbrick also boasts boutique accommodation, two restaurants and a deck that is the perfect place to share a bottle of wine. Perhaps their reserve chardonnay might be to your taste? It most certainly was to our judging panel who were beguiled by this Waiheke wonder, which they described as having ripe and figgy aromas intermingled with nougat and almond on the nose making this wine instantly appealing. Once you delve into the well-weighted palate, ripe fruit flavours sit alongside judicious but beautifully balanced oak. The finish is lengthy with a persistence that makes this wine intensely moreish. Delightful.
This wine is what is sometimes described as a ‘fruit and oak’-style …
2Clean and bright in the glass with fresh lifted aromatics. The palate …
3Bright citrus and white florals come through on the nose with just …
4Savoury complex notes on the nose and palate with lots of reductive …
5Looks fantastic in the glass with lots of oak and phenolics balanced …
6A low-key example that doesn’t need to shout to make an impression. …
7Medium colour in the glass with citrus and white flower aromas on …
8Big, bold and ripe with attractive fruit and lots of well-managed oak. …
9Medium colour in the glass with aromas of stonefruit and lovely toasty, …
10An understated nose with ripe fruit aromas well balanced by the generous …
11Ripe and full from the first whiff to the last remnants of …
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