An underpopulated category, the ‘other reds’ in this Cuisine tasting, were a revelation worth repeating, says MARY-THÉRÈSE BLAIR.
A small but thrilling group of wines for our judges to assess. As always we would love to see more wines that fall into the ‘other’ category but there is the realisation that we live in a small island nation a long way from the rest of the world so, by and large, us wine nerds don’t feel like we ever see enough ‘other’ when it comes to wine. The truth is a small country makes a small market, and no distributor is going to make their fortune servicing the wild and wacky tastes of the country’s wine obsessives, so things that are a little bit different – or ‘other’ – from the mainstream can be hard to come by. Maybe one day someone will import containers full of ‘other’ wine simply for the thrill of it, as opposed to money. OK, it’s unlikely, but we won’t stop dreaming.
Our judges were enormously excited when the top wine was revealed as a 2021 Gisborne montepulciano, a glorious endorsement of 2021 in Gisborne and of how well this variety, far from its native Italy, can do in the right hands. It’s a fantastic result from David and Shona Egan who have been grape growers in Gisborne for over 40 years and clearly are not afraid to try something new. In fact, Bushmere came to be when in the mid- 2000s their standing grape-supply contracts were not renewed. Faced with a dilemma, the Egans established their own label and have been growing and making Bushmere wine since 2005. Bushmere is named for the area the vineyard land occupies, as denoted on old maps of the district.
This wine is an intense, deep, ruby colour in the glass with ripe blackberries, cherries and warm spice on the nose. The palate is well weighted with beautiful purity of fruit, succulent and juicy on the mid-palate with modest tannins and a delicious chocolatey finish. A wine that will reward time in the cellar.
With experiments in vine growth that result in wines such as this, we encourage more New Zealand winemakers to branch out from the norm and try something a little bit different. No doubt winemaking is a challenging, 365-day-a- year job and it’s definitely not easy, but results like this show us that anything is possible in this wonderful little island nation at the end of the world.
Hugely coloured with ripe aromas of blackberry, smoked game, liquorice and vanilla …
2Deep ruby in the glass with sweet fruit, vanilla, coconut and rich …
3