A chardonnay from Marlborough taking top spot reinforces the point that this region can do so much more than sauvignon. This single-vineyard wine comes from the Rapaura Springs’ Bouldevines Vineyard in Omaka Valley, where the cooler climate enables grapes to retain the levels of acid needed for fresh, vibrant wines. Although the start of the 2019 season was tricky, with higher rainfall in spring, the summer was long and hot, which ensured rapid ripening and an earlier start to the harvest than expected. Grapes were whole-bunch pressed and put in a combination of new and older oak barrels to undergo a wild ferment, and had 10 months’ ageing before bottling. This wine captured our judges immediately, with powerful presence in the glass and aromas of stonefruit, citrus pith, and glinting gunsmoke on the nose, with a hint of incense. The palate is smartly structured with power and balance. Flavours of white peach, chargrilled nectarine and salted lime are backed with hints of nutty oak, freshly baked cinnamon and spice roll-ups. A superb example of restrained power; the perfect marriage of intensity and class.